Another Big Vacation - Part 2

 “We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” 

 ― Jawaharlal Nehru

Having thoroughly enjoyed our previous experience in Honduras at Upachaya, we knew we wanted to go back with the whole crew on this trip.  Our reservation was made easily online and we prepared to visit the Mesoamerican Reef once again.

Carnival cruise line had crated a "tourist town", Mahogany Bay, for their Roatán experience.   Whereas Royal Caribbean ports in Coxen Hole, (named after the 17th century pirate John Coxen) the largest city in Roatán at a population of five thousand.

The two locations couldn't be more different.  Mahogany Bay is a mini resort paved, cleaned, painted and polished to appeal to the modern tourist and their ideas of vacationing in pristine cleanliness with first-world luxuries.  The beach at Mahogany Bay is made of imported sand and lined with chairs, umbrellas, and the sounds and smells of an ideal Caribbean vacation.

Coxen Hole has the usual port of entry tourist shops packed into a mini-mall type of introductory experience; 

Overlooking the island from the tourist area.  (John filming in the background)

Playing it up in the tourist shops.

...but once you set foot outside of the well guarded gates, you enter a true Central American experience.

Directly overhead, in the middle of town.

We exited onto bustling streets lined with sweaty, pushy salesmen attempting to direct you to their small storefronts.  The streets were uneven, cracked and unmarked.  Tangled power and cable lines  crisscross overhead and tropical trees and hibiscus flowers line the dingy streets.  Cars zoomed by in various degrees of disrepair, zigzagging along sometimes three vehicles wide on the narrow streets as pedestrians bravely claimed their share of the already overfilled road.  We saw one car with a large hole the size of a watermelon in the windshield filled with spray-foam insulation.  Third-world repairs are the best!!

We wandered down the street towards the nearest shops as children excitedly struck up conversations and walked along with us.  We often stepped over half-dead dogs who had flopped themselves awkwardly across the narrow broken sidewalks trying to sleep away the damp heat as tall slender chickens (which survive better in the tropics) darted under trees in nearby yards.  We found a few treasures in the modest little shops and found some empty chairs in a little ocean-side bar with a little dock for us to walk out over the water as we shared a few icy Monkey La-Las.

Still awaiting our tour, we wandered into what had affectionately been called the "local's beach", a slender stretch of rocky sand nearby the port.   We found ourselves on a small rickety dock enjoying the views of the ocean as Zoey tossed rocks in the ocean with the local children.

Our driver was prompt as usual and we, along with another family of 3, set out for Upachaya in Mud Hole (Maybe after a pirate named Mud?).  Before we knew it we were out on the water and swimming through the beauty that is the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef.

Zoey tried her best to join in, but the almost immediate introduction of salt water in her mask and eyes quickly revealed that she is not ready for this adventure.  When we were around the boat she did jump in to experience a small amount of snorkeling and got to hold a rather large star fish, but the rest of the time she played happily on the boat with Mario, one of the great guides.

We saw so many great sites, but instead of telling you, we used our new GoPro Hero 3+ video camera to document our adventure.  As it's our first attempt at videography and editing, it's a bit rough, but I hope you enjoy it. (If you can't select the video, or to see it with alt music click HERE.)

After the trip we were treated to a wonderful vegetarian snack lunch and the staff picked a fresh coconut for Zoey to eat and drink, which she loved.

When we arrived back in Coxen Hole, we dropped off our supplies at the ship and went back into town to finish our day.  As we walked we received an unofficial, unsolicited tour provided by one of the locals.  Bianca had her picture with him, which she loved......Okay, she wanted to shoot us.

After many musty hot shops, we settled back into the little ocean-side bar with a dock and enjoyed a drink of the local beer and played on the dock before departing.

As the ship pulled away from Roatán, Honduras, we all reflected on the authentic nature of our experience.  The grit, grime, sultry heat, blooming flowers, outgoing people, and rickety nature of the town only adds to the experience of visiting a far away place.  We all agreed it's a great place, worthy of visiting again.

The next day we would awaken in another country, ready for another experience; Belize City, Belize.

(to be continued)

Another Big Vacation - Part 1

"A vacation is having nothing to do and all day to do it in."

-Robert Orben

Walking on the beach in Galveston, TX.

I've slacked a bit on the blog because life has a way of getting busy, but here's what we've been up to!!

My sisters planned a big cruise for the same dates and destinations we had gone last year:  Roatán, Honduras, Belize City, Belize, and Cozumel, Mexico.  Of course I wouldn't pass up  a chance to spend time with my sister Chrissy, and my little girl needed to see her aunt also, so the three of us booked our tickets.  We were excited to revisit these great locations, spend time with family, and curious about a different cruise line, Royal Caribbean.

John, Karlie, Zoey and myself arrived in Galveston a day early after an overnight drive of 9 hours.  Karlie and Chrissy had found us an interesting hotel with a great location.  The place itself was a little run down and the staff lacked in the hospitality department, but we couldn't beat the views we were privileged to wake up to both mornings.           

Our morning exercise took us to the shoreline to outrun the wind as fog still enveloped the town.

 As we walked collecting treasures for Zoey, I braved a touch of a jellyfish and convinced my daughter and sister to do the same...because I am a great role-model.  It is very clear why the call it a jellyfish, because it feels just like thick jelly.

 Next we drove the length of Galveston and back towards Kemah, TX.  In Kemah we toured a few great live-aboard sailboats and decided it is not only a financially feasible option for us in the future, but that living in one is not much different that our current home, so the transition would be easy.

The day was chilly (go figure it was December) so having had a long night previously, we finished a bit early with dinner at Fish Tales.  Karlie and I were challenged to our first raw oysters, and we both accepted with grimaces. We both agree, they are...gulp....slimily okay.

Brandon, Chrissy, and Bianca arrived late that night via shuttle transport after we had tucked in for the night, so the next morning we had a great morning reunion.  Waiting for the time to depart, we walked the beach tossing jellyfish back in the ocean then shuttled the crew to the pier to load onto the ship.

Once aboard we started with the essential exploration of our rooms, self-guided tours, first meal, and jumped in the hot tub as the boat launched.

Days and nights aboard the boat we ate, sat in the hot tubs, swam in the salt-water pool, drank foo foo drinks, ate, danced, watched flying fish, played shuffle board and miniature golf,

Doing it right!!!

...drank foo foo drinks, napped, shopped, ate,

...watched an ice skating show, played dodge ball,

A team to be reckoned with...

 ...ate, drank foo foo drinks, rock climbed,

Sadly I didn't make it to the kiddie bell, I might be a bit scared of heights.

Karlie is a pro!!

...dressed up, took pictures,

...participated in ridiculous game shows, and last but not least enjoyed time with each other.  Did I mention on a cruise ship you eat a lot, and drink at least one foo foo drink a day?


You may be wondering, what was Zoey doing all this time?  Although she spent much of her time with us, immersed in our activities;

Enjoying our morning balcony view.

So happy to see Aunt Chrissy.

Our waiter made her a paper animal each night.

Loving her towel-monkey our cabin steward made.

...she also enjoyed the kid's daycare area.  She played with kids her own age, created art projects, had her face painted, read books and watched shows. The first night's dinner she curled up o the chair and slept through the main course.  After that, we had to enforce an-hour-nap a day to ensure she could enjoy the night shows and stay awake during dinner.

John and I had been able to experience the Carnival, Magic (which runs the same course at the same time) on our previous trip and were able to now compare it to the Royal Caribbean, Navigator of the Seas.   Both were great vacation ships, but when we went on Magic, it was less than a year old, and we were on Navigator's last sail before refit.  Comparing them based on that was a bit difficult.  The ship was a bit worn, and so was the staff, probably ready for a much needed vacation.  Although both ships had comparable amenities, the Navigator's buffet had shorter lines and Carnival's snack shops were more plentiful, flavorful, and diverse.  We preferred Carnival's dinner menu, much to our surprise after reading some other reviews.  One plus when in port was disembarkation via tender was much quicker on Navigator.  In the end they were both great ships and vacations, but we didn't really see a justification in price increase for Royal Caribbean over the cheaper Carnival, when comparing these two ships.  Note: Perhaps I would change my mind after a refit, but unlikely.

For us, the purpose and highlights of cruising are the destinations. Our three ports of call were as exciting as ever.  After three days at sea, our first port of call was Coxen Hole, on the isle of Roatán, Honduras.

 (to be continued)

Caribbean Holiday - Part 4 - Cozumel, Mexico

"My driving abilities from Mexico helped me get through Hollywood."

-Salma Hayek

The wind worked the sea into large rolling waves which raised and lowered the boat at unpredictable intervals.  As the ship rolled into the port of Cozumel, Mexico, the captain, Giovanni, announced in his thick Italian accent that all water based tours were canceled.  Oddly I was delighted we hadn't scheduled a snorkeling tour here so we wouldn't have to deal with the disappointment that was apparent on so many people's faces.  For this day, we had chosen to wing it, and wing it we did.

With eight ships in port, averaging 4000 passengers each and all water based tours canceled, we eagerly raced ashore to find a vehicle to rent.  The scooters looking unpleasant on such a windy day and the dune-buggies  already gone, we found ourselves in a third-world jeep.  Driving down the road we noticed that the rear view mirror was missing, the glove-box fell to the floor when I opened it only to find an empty beer bottle, none of the climate control knobs were still around and the heat was stuck in the on position(good thing it was soft-top), the speedometer didn't work,  fifth gear was non-existent, reverse only worked when holding the stick into gear, and it rattled loudly as we drove.  All-in-all it was a great exciting vehicle.

Cozumel is a tourist town so you would think all things would cater to tourism, but they still forgot to put up roadsigns, mark one way streets (which most of them are), or make it easy to pay for curbside parking.  Fortunately for us, Google Maps works in Mexico and the locals look out for you by honking repeatedly when you try to turn the wrong way on a one-way street.  We also found side streets and market place garages had free parking.

Logistics worked out, we spent the day exploring the island.  We admired beautiful scenery, scoped out the working class neighborhoods, walked through a large department store, and dickered with the many shop owners trying to make their day's wage.  

The department store was reminiscent of a Wal-mart and had most prices comparable to the US but with different offerings than we are accustomed to, like basin-style washing machines and mini propane cook-tops.  I was tempted by the many varieties at the deli-style ceviche bar, but decided that it may be "too local" for my American stomach.  Too bad.

The street vendors often had items "gringo-taxed"(overpriced to sell to tourist), but tried to call you over using the same tag lines: "Cheaper than Wal-mart", and "So cheap it's almost free!" Most wanted to give us shots of tequila, I'm sure to loosen our wallets, but it was a tactic I didn't mind.  We were even offered a few Mayan calanders yet it was Dec. 21st and we felt it would be a poor purchase since it was no longer good after that day (dumb joke).  They offered, we dickered, and by the end of the day we had a small stash of treasures in the back of our jeep.

Highlights were: The Puerto de Abrigo Marina where boats cruised in and out with a cool castle/fort  in the background; 

 ...driving the rugged coast, a little lost, a lot enthralled; getting to wander the streets sipping my $1.50 Sol beer (cheap and open containers are okay); and getting our pics with two lovable Macaws. 

 Cozumel is a fun place, but super touristy.   Perhaps we'll be able to visit again and explore some of those water sports or a beach during calmer weather.  Our ship was the first of many to leave port that day and as the sun set we saw the lights of yet another tourist town, Cancun, in the distance lit up to attract yet more tourism dollars.   

Back aboard and heading home.

The last day at sea was marked by choppy waters, so I  downed a few pills to keep my sea legs and we left the beautiful Caribbean in our wake.  Sad to see our adventure end, but invigorated by it all, John and I ended our vacation with a drive back to Midland, then onto Tucson to pick up our little girl.  Thank you Carnival Magic and all those who helped us make our vacation a carefree dream.

Caribbean Holiday - Part 2 - Roatán, Honduras

 "People don't take trips . . . trips take people."
- John Steinbeck

Docking in Roatan, another ship coming into port with the mountain of Honduras behind it.

Each morning aboard, I rose with the sun and peered from our balcony at the sights of the beautiful Caribbean Sea. Our third day at sea brought into view the mainland  "mountain of Honduras", as our driver called it.  Our ship had slipped between  mainland  Honduras and the Isla de Roatán then into Mahogany Bay.

Mahogany Bay is a tourism village owned and operated by Carnival.  It's densely packed with duty free shops, international vendors peddling their goods (most surely made abroad but marketed as Honduran) and a few local artisans who I'm sure paid dearly for their tiny booths to sell their handmade goods to the thousands of eager spenders coming ashore.  The pristine buildings, walkways and gardening, although nice, is a far cry from the true Island experience.

We had chosen to book our excursion outside of the cruise ships offerings and found a highly recommended snorkeling tour at Upachaya. We exited the tourist village and along with a few others climbed a small hill to where the outside vendors must wait for their fares.  We found our driver, Marco, immediately and he ushered us into his passenger van.  He informed us that we were the only passengers from this port and we would need to go to the Royal Caribbean port for the others.

We careened through the hills on narrow roads, sometimes three vehicles wide nearly rubbing as they passed.   It was quickly apparent that roadsigns, stop-signs, and most general rules of the road are optional in Central America.  The drive was marked by dense foliage, small residences, businesses and foot traffic of all ages.

Flowers colored the landscape, fruit and nuts were in various stages of growth, and a few howler monkeys lounged in the branches of the big trees as we sped by, too fast for pictures but I've included a little video showing some of the drive. We arrived in Coxen Hole before the other boat had begun to disembark, so Marco  took us to his little house on Main Street to wait.  We wandered the tiny lane with homes, shops, and restaurants flanking the ocean and admired a vendor as he sold his produce for the morning until the others arrived on foot with Marco's wife.  Grand total for the tour was....drum roll please....five of us.

Fresh produce for sale, roadside.

Our driver then pointed us to the North side of the island where we exited the paved roads.  The road briefly passed the "gold mine", the local dumb where people could be seen picking through the garbage for recyclables to sell back.   As the other passenger vans sped by us, Marco explained that his van is his own so he must care for it.  "Those are owned by resorts.  They replace their shocks once every 8 months, I replace mine once every 8 years."  This  made sense to us, and our ride was much smoother than theirs, I'm sure.

We arrived at Upachaya and were greeted by Barbara, the proprietor.  She showed us down the beautifully built wooden walkways while explaining the various edible and medicinal plants on her property.  We were fitted with fins (John and I already had masks and snorkels), and walked through the mangroves to the tiny dock.  Barbara pointed out where several iguanas and a boa frequented, but since it was only in the low 80's, it was too cold for them to show themselves.

 Our boat sped through the mangroves and past luxurious island homes.  Near the reef, coral emerged from the water due to low tide and the sea turned from cobalt blue to pale turquoise.  We slipped off the boat into a turtle grass patch under only about four and a half feet of water.  Our guide, Al, took time to make sure everyone was comfortable, then our adventure began.  Al led us across the waves into the magical wonderland that is the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef.  The murky sea limited some of our experience, but didn't ruin it a bit.  Although the pictures don't do justice here are a few.  Al showed us an arrow crab, green eels, a snake eel...

  ...an octopus, lobsters....

(one lobster....two lobster)

 ...lion fish, french angel fish, scorpion fish...

(he's the one that looks like a rock)

...urchins, sea cucumbers, and starfish to name a few.

(you try taking a underwater glamor shot)

When our swimming abilities limited us, he hold grab our hand and drag us down to see the wonders  he had found.  Everyone had the privilege to see the most the sea had to offer.

Back ashore we cleaned off with a refreshing freshwater shower and made it to the large palapa in the center of the property.  The whole group decided that we would have Monkey La La drinks, because with a name like that, what else would you have on vacation.  We were then treated to a mostly home-grown lunch of fresh, super-delicious papaya, coconut, coleslaw (not your garden variety), pasta salad, and chips with guacamole and salsa. 

We all interrogated Barbara, an expatriate from the United States, regarding her experiences relocating and setting herself up in a foreign country.  She told of her experiences creating her oasis property, dealing with local government and the officials, building processes, working with caretakers and employees and the like.  She proved to be an extremely valuable and encouraging resource for John and I, since we plan on doing something similar to her.

I do prefer most of my food to be dead.

We were picked up by Marcos and after two attempts (apparently it needed a running start) the little van careened up the driveway and back across the island.  Back at port, John and I dropped off our supplies on the ship and proceeded to the Mahogany Bay shops to find a few treasures.  Satisfied with a few finds, we wandered on to the beach to enjoy a little rest before boarding the ship and setting sail for Belize City, Belize.

(to be continued)